A Weekend in Lisbon: My Favourite Restaurants, Rooftops & Viewpoints

When I think of Lisbon, I think of the walks that take longer than planned. A street in Chiado leads to another one uphill. There's somewhere to stop for coffee, then a view you hadn't intended to find. By the end of the day your legs know about it, but you wouldn't have done much differently.

That's the Lisbon I enjoy: old neighbourhoods, good food, a little greenery and the occasional rooftop cocktail. I've been to the places in this guide and chosen the ones I'd happily recommend. They're arranged into a loose Friday-to-Sunday plan, not a claim that I squeezed every restaurant into a single weekend. That would be exhausting. And a waste of a good city.

Friday: Baixa, Chiado and a drink above the rooftops

I'd begin on foot. Baixa is all broad streets and big squares; climb towards Chiado and the streets become narrower, with cafés and shops tempting you to slow down. Bairro Alto is close enough to wander into next, especially if you're staying out for the evening.

There's no prize for covering the most ground. I remember Lisbon just as much for the small things I noticed between stops. When the jacarandas are flowering, for instance, a perfectly ordinary walk can become the best-looking part of your afternoon.

Sushi at Suntory Exotic Japanese Fusion

I know. Sushi isn't the first thing most people think of when planning a weekend in Portugal. But that's partly why I enjoyed Suntory Exotic Japanese Fusion. Lisbon has plenty of places for traditional Portuguese food; I don't feel the need to eat the same way at every meal.

The sushi at Suntory was beautifully presented, with colourful rolls and salmon nigiri arranged across a long platter. It's a fun choice when you want dinner to be a bit more of an occasion. I would still leave room elsewhere in the weekend for Portuguese cooking.

Cocktails at Rooftop Ruby Rosa

For a drink afterwards, Rooftop Ruby Rosa at Lisbon Art Stay is one of my picks. I had cocktails there, complete with dried citrus garnishes, and liked the contrast with the busy streets below. You come up from Baixa and suddenly the evening feels a little less hurried.

I wouldn't turn a rooftop stop into another box to tick. Have a drink, look around, stay as long as you feel like. Lisbon will still be there in the morning.

Saturday: A slow morning, a greenhouse and sunset in Graça

Coffee at Honest Greens, Príncipe Real

I like starting a city day without rushing straight to the next attraction. Príncipe Real is a good neighbourhood for that: cafés, shops and plenty of reasons to linger. At Honest Greens, I stopped for coffee. The cappuccino came with a neat little leaf of latte art — the kind of detail that makes you look twice before taking a sip.

Take a proper break here. There'll be more walking later, and there's nothing wrong with making coffee part of the plan rather than something you grab on the way to it.

A change of pace at Estufa Fria

Not every stop needs a skyline. Estufa Fria, near Parque Eduardo VII, gives you something very different from Lisbon's streets: dense plants, pools, winding paths and sheltered spaces. I enjoyed having that quieter, greener part of the city in the mix.

It's easy to fill a weekend with churches, viewpoints and restaurants. This is where I'd break things up. Wander for a while. You don't have to make the whole visit productive.

The sunset at Miradouro da Graça

Of all the views I'd make time for, Miradouro da Graça is high on my list. The roofs spread out below you, the Tagus is in the distance and, when the light is right, the city changes colour in front of you.

Go before sunset rather than racing uphill at the last minute. It's a much nicer experience when you can find your spot and simply watch. The photograph at the top of this article was taken there.

Bone marrow at Taberna Os Papagaios

For dinner, there's Taberna Os Papagaios in Arroios. The dish I still remember is the bone marrow: served in a split bone, with toasted bread alongside. Rich, a little messy and not the sort of thing I'd order every week. It was memorable, though.

Arroios isn't next to the Graça viewpoint, so don't assume you can walk straight from sunset to the table in a few minutes. Plan the journey, and check the current menu before going. I'm recommending a meal I enjoyed, not promising the same dish will be available every night.

Sunday: Alfama and a final good meal

Take your time in Alfama

Alfama is where I'd spend part of my last day. Its narrow lanes, steps and sudden glimpses across the rooftops are more interesting to me than following a strict route from one photo spot to another. Some corners are busy. Turn a little farther and the feeling can change completely.

Wear comfortable shoes. Lisbon's cobbles and hills aren't especially forgiving, and after two days on foot you may be grateful you packed them.

Seafood at A Marisqueira do Lis

I also wanted seafood to have a place in this guide. I visited A Marisqueira do Lis, on Avenida Almirante Reis, and it's an option I'd consider for a leisurely meal rather than a quick bite between sights.

It isn't in the middle of Alfama, so allow time to get there. Choose from what's available, take your time at the table and don't plan the next stop too tightly. A good meal deserves a bit of space around it.

Or a Brazilian rodízio at Fogo de Chão

If you're in the mood for something completely different, another place I've tried is Fogo de Chão at Páteo Bagatela. It's a Brazilian rodízio: different cuts of meat are brought round and carved at the table, with accompaniments alongside. Come hungry.

I would choose either this or the seafood restaurant for a Sunday meal, not try to fit both into the same afternoon. They're alternatives from my own visits, not two stops you're expected to complete.

And don't ignore the bakery windows

Some food memories don't involve a restaurant at all. I came across these breads with whole eggs baked into them, held in place by strips of dough. It's exactly the sort of thing I'd have missed if I'd been walking with my eyes on a map.

What I'd keep in mind for a Lisbon weekend

Give yourself fewer appointments than you think you need. I would pick a couple of places I really wanted to visit, book ahead where necessary and leave the rest of the day loose. Baixa and Chiado work well together; Graça and Alfama make sense as another walk, though the climbs can take it out of you. Restaurants in Arroios or elsewhere across town deserve their own travel time.

And don't plan all your evenings around a perfect sunset. If the weather cooperates, wonderful. If not, there are still good places to eat and plenty of streets worth exploring. Check opening hours and booking arrangements before setting out; the restaurants and menus I've written about can change.

If your dates are flexible, Destination Finder's Best Time to Visit Europe tool is useful for comparing typical monthly weather and relative visitor pressure. It's a planning tool, not a forecast for your particular weekend.

Is a weekend in Lisbon enough?

Enough to get a feel for it, yes. Not enough to do everything, and I wouldn't try. The parts I enjoyed most didn't depend on an ambitious itinerary. A good meal, a climb with a view at the end of it, coffee when I felt like stopping. That's a weekend I'd be happy to repeat.

For the practical side — typical weather, transport, neighbourhoods, nearby beaches and historical coastal bathing-water results — have a look at the Lisbon destination guide. This story is about the places I've personally enjoyed; the guide can help you work out the rest.